Q: How high should I mow my lawn?
A: Generally, 3 1/2" to 4" is best. The longer the blade is, the better the grass can store nutrients in the root system because more leaf tissue is available for use in the photosynthesis process.
Q: How often should I water my lawn?
A: It depends on the time of year. During the spring, little watering is required because the temperatures are mild and rainfall is abundant. However, during the summer, as the temperatures increase and the rainfall decreases, your lawn will likely need significantly more water to prevent it from entering a dormant state. In the fall, watering levels can be cut back as temperatures cool off and as rainfall begins to increase. A good strategy for the spring and fall is to water two days back to back and then wait one or two days before repeating the cycle. Each zone should be watered approximately 20 minutes or as long as it takes until the water begins to run off. Also, it is best to water your lawn before 10 A.M. on a consistent basis because the lawn get used to absorbing whatever moisture is available. During the summer, watering frequency and times may need to be increased.
It is best to water deeply and infrequently. If your lawn is still moist from the last watering, you should delay the next watering cycle until the lawn has had time to dry out. Over-watering can be just as detrimental as under-watering since excessive water weakens the turf, makes it less wear resistant, and provides ideal conditions for fungal growth and other turf pathogens. On the other hand, if your turf is burning out, you should either increase the amount of water applied or the frequency of application.
Another factor to consider is the lay of your lawn. A sloped lawn will need to be watered more frequently than a flat lawn since water will be prone to running off of a slope.
Finally, if your lawn has just been aerated and seeded, you should try to keep the top 1/2" of the soil moist for the first 2-3 weeks. Watering every day during this time frame is recommended. Then you should ease back to your normal watering schedule.
It is best to water deeply and infrequently. If your lawn is still moist from the last watering, you should delay the next watering cycle until the lawn has had time to dry out. Over-watering can be just as detrimental as under-watering since excessive water weakens the turf, makes it less wear resistant, and provides ideal conditions for fungal growth and other turf pathogens. On the other hand, if your turf is burning out, you should either increase the amount of water applied or the frequency of application.
Another factor to consider is the lay of your lawn. A sloped lawn will need to be watered more frequently than a flat lawn since water will be prone to running off of a slope.
Finally, if your lawn has just been aerated and seeded, you should try to keep the top 1/2" of the soil moist for the first 2-3 weeks. Watering every day during this time frame is recommended. Then you should ease back to your normal watering schedule.
Q: My lawn has brown patches in it. Why is this, and what should I do about it?
A: There are many causes of brown patches. The most common cause is excessive thatch accumulation. Thatch consists of dead and living roots, stems, and shoots that, if allowed to build up, will prevent water and fertilizer from reaching the soil. Also, harmful insects and disease pathogens can be harbored in heavy thatch layers. This problem can be solved by dethatching, aerating, and overseeding the affected areas.
Another cause of brown spots could be a fungal infection. Lawn fungus can become an issue when evening temperatures stay in the 60-degree range. Fungal spores are carried by the wind and can damage turf from June through September. Fungicide treatments at the first sign of a problem during these months is critical. Also, removing a heavy thatch layer would be beneficial because thatch provides good conditions for fungal growth.
An additional cause of brown patches is nitrogen overdosage. This is most frequently caused by dog urine or fertilizer burns. Brown patches with exceptionally green edges are characteristic of nitrogen overdosage.
If your dog is the culprit, the problem can be addressed in several ways. One option would be to pour water on affected areas immediately after the dog urinates. This will dilute the nitrogen so as to reduce the likelihood of overdosing any particular spot. Another option would be to keep your dog well hydrated and so reduce nitrogen concentration in the urine. Finally, you can consider administering nitrogen reducing supplements to the dog, but please consult your veterinarian for further advice.
If your dog is the culprit, the problem can be addressed in several ways. One option would be to pour water on affected areas immediately after the dog urinates. This will dilute the nitrogen so as to reduce the likelihood of overdosing any particular spot. Another option would be to keep your dog well hydrated and so reduce nitrogen concentration in the urine. Finally, you can consider administering nitrogen reducing supplements to the dog, but please consult your veterinarian for further advice.
If fertilizer is to blame, applications should be limited to every 4 - 6 weeks and the fertilizer should be watered in within 8 hours of application.
Once the cause of the brown spots is identified and corrected, existing brown spots should be spread with topsoil and overseeded.
Once the cause of the brown spots is identified and corrected, existing brown spots should be spread with topsoil and overseeded.
Q: I aerate, seed, fertilize, and water my lawn regularly, but it is still declining. Why?
A: One likely reason for your lawn's decline is that the soil pH is out of balance. Chemical reactions involving fertilizer and nutrient utilization by turf grass are very pH sensitive. So when the soil pH is incorrect, even the best fertilizer programs, watering practices, and general care will not improve the lawn's appearance because nutrients are unavailable to the turf plants. Therefore, you should conduct a soil test to determine the actual pH of your soil and take proper steps to correct any imbalances.
Another reason could be that your lawn has a heavy thatch layer. Thatch consists of dead and living roots, stems, and shoots that, if allowed to build up, will prevent water and fertilizer from reaching the soil. This can be solved by dethatching and aerating.
A: One likely reason for your lawn's decline is that the soil pH is out of balance. Chemical reactions involving fertilizer and nutrient utilization by turf grass are very pH sensitive. So when the soil pH is incorrect, even the best fertilizer programs, watering practices, and general care will not improve the lawn's appearance because nutrients are unavailable to the turf plants. Therefore, you should conduct a soil test to determine the actual pH of your soil and take proper steps to correct any imbalances.
Another reason could be that your lawn has a heavy thatch layer. Thatch consists of dead and living roots, stems, and shoots that, if allowed to build up, will prevent water and fertilizer from reaching the soil. This can be solved by dethatching and aerating.
Q: How often should I aerate and overseed?
A: Ideally, you should aerate and overseed your lawn every fall. In fact, aerating and overseeding could be the most important things you do for your lawn each year. As older grass plants reach the end of their life cycles, the lawn will begin to thin unless new grass plants are added. Also, aeration keeps thatch layers in check and relieves compaction, thereby increasing water and nutrient absorption. The optimal time to aerate and seed is late August through October.
A: Ideally, you should aerate and overseed your lawn every fall. In fact, aerating and overseeding could be the most important things you do for your lawn each year. As older grass plants reach the end of their life cycles, the lawn will begin to thin unless new grass plants are added. Also, aeration keeps thatch layers in check and relieves compaction, thereby increasing water and nutrient absorption. The optimal time to aerate and seed is late August through October.